Posted by Moroccan Artisan Made
on November 03, 2026
Quick answerIn the traditional tanneries of Fez, raw hides go through 10 steps: a lime bath to remove the hair, washing, a softening bath, a second wash, a bran bath, a tanning bath, sun drying, re-moistening, softening in a net and a final finish with a hand tool. For goatskin, the whole process takes several weeks, and the tanning relies on plant materials such as tamarisk gall.
The goatskin leather used in our poufs is tanned in Fez, the city whose medina tanneries have worked hides for centuries. This guide follows the leather through the traditional process, step by step, based on the description published by the Fez-Meknès Regional Chamber of Crafts (Chambre d'Artisanat Régionale Fès-Meknès).
Why Fez?
Leather is one of the most important branches of traditional craft in Fez. It includes tanning, shoemaking and leather goods, and most of the workshops are located in the medina. Tanning is the foundation of the whole trade: every bag, slipper or pouf made in the city starts as a hide that has passed through a tannery.
What is the leather tanned with?
Traditional tanning in Fez relies on plant materials, chosen according to the type of hide:
| Hide | Main tanning material | Name of the finished leather |
|---|---|---|
| Goat | Tamarisk gall; pomegranate peel for the bright yellow color | Ziwani |
| Sheep | Mimosa | Btana |
| Cow | Mimosa | Naal and Mestoukia |
Our poufs are made from goatskin, the leather known locally as ziwani. It is fine-grained, supple and takes color well, which is why it is the traditional choice for poufs and slippers.
The 10 steps of traditional tanning
| Step | What happens | How long |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Lime bath | Raw hides soak in small pits called mjayer, filled with water and lime, to loosen the hair | About 20 days for goatskin (30 for cow, 10 for sheep) |
| 2. Washing | The hides are moved to washing basins and rinsed with water | — |
| 3. Softening bath | The hides soak in pits called kassryate, in a bath of pigeon droppings that softens them | 24 hours in summer, 3 days in winter |
| 4. Second washing | The hides are rinsed again to remove any remaining impurities | — |
| 5. Bran bath | Back in the kassryate pits, the hides are mixed with bran | 1 day in summer, 5 days in winter |
| 6. Tanning bath | The hides soak in a tannin bath; dyes are added when a color is needed | 4 days |
| 7. Sun drying | The hides are laid out to dry in the sun | — |
| 8. Re-moistening | The dry hides are sprayed with water and covered overnight | 1 night |
| 9. Softening in the ftih | The hides are worked in a net called ftih to make them supple | — |
| 10. Finishing with the sadrya | A traditional hand tool called sadrya gives the leather its final finish | — |
Steps 1 to 5: preparing the hide
The first half of the process cleans the hide and opens up its structure. The lime bath loosens the hair so it can be removed. The softening bath in the kassryate pits relaxes the fibers, and the timing changes with the season: the work moves faster in the summer heat and slower in winter. The bran bath finishes the preparation before the hide is tanned.
Steps 6 to 10: tanning, coloring and finishing
The tannin bath is what turns a raw hide into leather that will not rot and that stays flexible. Color is added at this stage when the leather needs to be dyed. The leather then dries in the sun, is moistened again overnight so it does not stay stiff, and is worked by hand in the ftih and with the sadrya until it is soft enough to be cut and sewn.
What this means for your pouf
- Every hide is different: traditional tanning keeps the natural grain, so tone and texture vary from one panel to another.
- Color can vary between batches: hides are dyed in batches, so two poufs of the same color may differ slightly.
- A natural leather scent: new, traditionally tanned leather can have a distinct smell. It fades as the leather airs out.
- It ages well: the leather softens with use and develops a patina over the years.
See our guide to natural leather variations and our leather care guide.
From tanned leather to finished pouf
Once tanned, the leather leaves the tannery for the workshop. There, every panel is cut by hand. Depending on the style, the panels are then stitched by hand and embroidered by women artisans, decorated with hand engraving, or assembled by our artisans on a sewing machine. Read the next part of the story in how a Moroccan leather pouf is made, step by step.
Frequently asked questions
Where is your leather tanned?
The goatskin used for our poufs is tanned in Fez, following the traditional process described above.
Is the leather vegetable-tanned?
The tanning itself relies on plant materials: tamarisk gall for goatskin, mimosa for sheep and cow hides. Other steps use lime, bran and water, and dyes are added when a color is needed.
How long does traditional tanning take?
For goatskin, the lime bath alone lasts about 20 days. With the other baths, drying and finishing, the process takes several weeks.
Why does my new pouf smell of leather?
Traditionally tanned leather often has a natural scent when it is new. Let the cover air out in a well-ventilated room, away from direct sunlight, and the smell will fade.
Source: Chambre d'Artisanat Régionale Fès-Meknès, "Le tannage traditionnel".
Leather tanned in Fez, made by hand
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